The climb is combined with the classic trek around the Annapurna massif, ascending the Marshyangdi valley and crossing the Thorong La, before descending the Kali Gandaki valley to Pokhara. The climb is technically straightforward and you should be familiar with the use of your equipment, crampons, harness, ice axe, tying knots and handling climbing ropes. Most of the climbing will be involved walking roped together, including the glacial crossings. You should be very fit and have good experience of climbing.
The North-East Ridge is considered the normal route to climb this peak from a Base Camp on the moraine at 5334m (17500ft). Most climbers make it to the top and back from Base Camp in one long day although some have, in the past, established a higher camp somewhere below the peak. Another subsidiary peak called Chulu Far East (6059m) 19880ft) may also be attempted from this approach.
Peak Climbing Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive and transfer to Hotel
Day 2: Drive to Dumre and onwards to Beshishahar, camp (5-6 hr)
Day 3: Trek to Ngadi, camp (5-6 hr)
Day 4: Trek to Jagat (approx. 5 hr)
Day 5: Trek to Dharapani (approx. 6 hr)
Day 6: Trek to Chame (approx. 5 ½ hr)
Day 7: Trek to Pisang (approx. 5 hr)
Day 8: Trek to Humde (approx. 6 hr)
Day 9: Trek to Yak Kharka (approx. 5 hr)
Day 10: Trek to Chulu Base Camp (approx. 6 hr)
Day 11: Trek to Yak Kharaka (approx. 6 hr)
Day 12: Acclimtization Day
Day 13: (Sherpa) (approx. 5 hr)
Day 14: High Camp, attempt Chulu peak (approx. 5 hr)
Day 15: Climb Chulu Peak, back to Base Camp (approx. 5 hr)
Day 16: Climb Chulu Peak, back to Base Camp (approx. 5 hr)
Day 17: Rest day in case of delay
Day 18: Fly to Pokhara or continue trek to Manang (approx. 5 hr)
Day 19: Trek to Thorung Phedi-440m (5-6 hr)
Day 20: Trek to Muktinath crossing over the Thorung La-5416m (8-9 hr)
Day 21: Trek to Jomsom-2713m (approx. 6 hr)
Day 22: Trek to Tukchey-2391m (approx. 4 hr)
Day 23: Trek to Ghasa-2013m (approx.6 hr)
Day 24: Trek to Tatopani-1189m (approx 6 hr)
Day 25: Trek to Beni (approx.6 hr) and drive to Pokhara, O/N at hotel
Day 26: Morning 30 minutes fly or 7 hrs drive to Kathmandu
Day 27: Final departure.
baburamk@hotmail.com
The climb is combined with the classic trek around the Annapurna massif, ascending the Marshyangdi valley and crossing the Thorong La, before descending the Kali Gandaki valley to Pokhara. The climb is technically straightforward and you should be familiar with the use of your equipment, crampons, harness, ice axe, tying knots and handling climbing ropes. Most of the climbing will be involved walking roped together, including the glacial crossings. You should be very fit and have good experience of climbing.
